A Scot on Scotch

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Online Retailer or Independent Bottler?

A Scot on Scotch checks out a small batch single malt from Speyside. This Master of Malt Craigellachie is aged 11 years and matured in bourbon, oloroso and Pedro Ximenez casks.

Master of Malt began life as an independent bottler in 1985, despatching single malts via Mail Order. Over the years, the company became a retailer and eventually, the business moved online to become one of the biggest players in that sphere. Today, it continues to operate as both retailer and independent bottler, with various single cask and small batch releases throughout the year.

Whiskies bottled under MoM’s own label tend to offer good value for money. For me, the lack of fancy packaging or excessive marketing is quite refreshing in a world often obsessed with style over substance. In this case, I’m sampling an 11-year-old single malt from the Speyside region…

Craigellachie Distillery

Alexander Edward and Peter Mackie established Craigellachie Distillery in 1891. Edward’s father owned Benrinnes distillery and left it to his son when he passed. Edward, however, was more interested in travelling and sold his father’s business. When he returned to Speyside, he developed the Craigellachie Hotel to capitalise on the new Victorian boom in Scottish tourism. In time, however, Edward saw the wisdom of following in his father’s footsteps and decided to set up his own distillery.

Edward needed a partner to work on his project, one with expertise in the whisky industry. He found the perfect candidate in Peter Mackie, a Glasgow-based blender and whisky baron. Mackie owned the highly successful White Horse blend and sought a reliable source of Speyside whisky to be used in the recipe. He decided that the best way to secure that supply was to build a distillery with Alexander Edward.

A Unique Spirit

Craigellachie is an unusual whisky, in many ways. Speyside is known for its light and fruity whiskies but Craigellachie is a different beast. There’s a weight to the spirit, thanks largely to the traditional wormtub condensers that are still in place, today. It’s interesting that during his visit in 1894, Alfred Barnard finds pineapple notes in the sample he tastes. This too, is something that can still be found in Craigellachie’s whisky today.

Craigellachie’s weight and, particularly in younger expressions, sulfury funk, distinguishes it from many of its close neighbours. It is a whisky far removed from the delicacy of a Glenlivet in style. For that reason, it is, for me, one of the standouts in the densely populated Speyside region.

Master of Malt Craigellachie Review

Craigellachie has more than enough character and backbone to stand up to the power of active casks. Master of Malt have used that to full effect with this small batch release. The whisky was matured in first-fill bourbon, oloroso and Pedro Ximenex sherry casks and bottled at 47.8%.

Tasting notes: On the nose: toffee, malt, fudge.. malty and a wee bit grassy at first. Over time that grassiness turns a bit funky. The start of the sulfur making its presence felt, perhaps. There’s definitely a hint of the meatiness and a touch of struck matches about it. Almost gives the impression of subtle smoke – although I presume it’s unpeated. I was also getting some wood varnish. On the palate: there’s a lovely weight to it and a beautiful oily texture. I got dried fruits and spices like nutmeg and clove from the sherry, and some dark chocolate towards the back before the oak set in. Not the fruitiest Craigellachie I’ve come across, maybe there’s some grilled pineapple in there, if you really hunt for it.

Thoughts: Not the sherry bomb I was perhaps expecting. It’s much more balanced than that. I was definitely picking up on the struck match sulfur that I expect to find in Craigellachie but the sherry was more like top dressing, rather than the main character of the malt. The ABV is at quite a nice level – it isn’t cask strength but it also isn’t a lowly 40% which means you get a nice round flavour without it being too intense a sip. An enjoyable, characterful dram.

Price: £60. Not quite a bargain but sensible enough.

For more about Master of Malt visit here

For more on Craigellachie Distillery visit here

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