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The Braeval Story

This is the final installment in a series of reviews that showcased recent releases from independent bottler, Lady of the Glen. The drams reviewed so far came from Glen Ord, Glenrothes, Craigellachie and Benrinnes. In this article, however, I’ll be turning my attention to one of the lesser-known Speyside distilleries: Braeval.

Founded in 1973, Braeval was originally known as Braes of Glenlivet and stands in a remote area that was once popular with illicit distillers. It was built by Chivas Brothers, a subsidiary of Seagrams and was one of the first fully automated sites in Scotland. It was also among the earliest to house the entirety of production in a single space, a layout that is commonly seen in smaller distilleries today.

The distillery’s name was changed in 1991, to avoid confusion with its hugely successful neighbour. Looking back, it seems something of a wonder that it took so long before the matter was raised as an issue. However, it should be noted that Glenlivet was a term often used as a suffix by several Speyside distilleries: Aberlour-Glenlivet, Macallan-Glenlivet, Tamdhu-Glenlivet, and so on.

Chivas Brothers was taken over by Pernod Ricard in 2001 and the new owner deemed Braeval to be surplus to requirements. The distillery was mothballed until 2008 when production eventually resumed.

The whisky is rarely bottled as a single malt. Instead, it contributes to various Blended Scotch brands. Some casks find their way to independent bottlers, however, and older versions may even carry the original distillery name.

This Lady of the Glen expression was distilled in 2009 and matured for 15 years in a refill sherry butt.

*Full disclosure: the sample featured in this review was sent to me free of charge. As always, I will strive to give an honest opinion on the quality of the dram and the value for money it represents.

The Whisky

Smell: Fruit & Nut chocolate bars. Salted caramel and runny honey. Citrus. Orange liqueur. Dark chocolate. Old dunnage casks – dank and dark, somehow. Fusty even. Wee touch of ginger, even a wee hint of IRN BRU.

Taste: A big sherry-led arrival with some old tannic oak. That sweet spicy thing again. Like sweet chilli. IRN BRU and Cherryade. Currants. Cayenne. Chilli flakes. Peanuts with some kind of spicy seasoning. Dry, oaky finish. Under the sherry and spice, there’s a touch of some lighter notes, malt and orchard fruits. A splash of water brought a burst of peach and nectarines.

Thoughts: There’s lots of lovely sherry on offer here. Perhaps more than you might expect from a refill butt. It’s spicy and full of flavour with good length on the finish. Then, just as you think you have it all figured out, a lighter side peaks through with almonds and vanilla creaminess. An excellent dram that manages to show some spirit character alongside the robust sherry.

Price: £110. Not cheap but 15 is a good age for a single cask and the quality is certainly there. One to savour – not an everyday sipper.

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