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The Story of Benrinnes

This article is the fourth in a series of reviews showcasing recent releases from independent bottler, Lady of the Glen. So far, I’ve sampled drams from Glen Ord, Glenrothes and Craigellachie. The subject of this review comes from yet another Speyside distillery: Benrinnes.

Benrinnes was established on the slopes of the mountain that shares its name in 1835. An earlier plant was established in 1826 but was destroyed in the Great Moray Floods of 1829 and its owner was left destitute. The new version was built by John Innes who sold it five years later to William Smith & Co who, in turn, sold to David Edward.

David’s son, Alexander, inherited the distillery following his Father’s passing. Alexander was a lively character and something of a local celebrity. He established Craigellachie and constructed a hotel in the same village to capitalise on the Victorian fascination with the Scottish Highlands. The Edwards sold to John Dewar & Sons in 1922 and three years later, the whole firm was swallowed up by the Distillers Company Ltd, a forerunner to Diageo, who remain custodians of Benrinnes today.

Benrinnes is an interesting distillery that stands out from many of its Speyside neighbours. Like Craigellachie, it belongs to a subset of Speysiders that produce a meaty spirit thanks to the retention of wormtub condensers. In-house bottlings by owners Diageo are few and far between though the lone 12-year-old offering in the Flora & Fauna series is quite an impressive dram that shows the spirit’s capability for carrying a sherry cask.

In truth, the best way to experience the Benrinnes single malt is through independent releases. This Lady of the Glen offering was matured in a refill hogshead before being finished in an oloroso cask.

*Full disclosure: the whisky featured in this review was sent to me free of charge. As always, I will strive to give an honest opinion on the quality of the dram and the value for money it represents.

The Whisky

Smell: The oloroso finish is immediately apparent but we’re not quite in sherry bomb territory. There’s a pleasant mix of oak and nuttiness and rich, dried fruits with a wee bit of that trademark meatiness – like a subtle hint of beef jerky in the background. Toffee. Polished oak furniture. Figs. Cayenne Pepper.

Taste: Toffee and caramel. Then pepper, cinnamon and ginger. Raisins, currants, sultanas. Terry’s Chocolate Orange. Dry, intense spices as it moves into a tannic finish.

Thoughts: Perhaps you could accuse this one of being a bit predictable but sometimes predictable is good. Sometimes you want to know what you’re going to get and this does a lot of what I’d expect a sherry-finished Benriness to do. You get the lighter, fruity notes with some maltiness underneath, a wee meaty backbone and the sherry coating on top. It ticks a lot of boxes for me. Unsurprising? Yes. Unsatisfying? Certainly not.

Price: £75. Standard pricing in the current market and has the quality to make it worthwhile.

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