WHISKY REVIEWS, NEWS, HISTORY & FOLKLORE
In this review I’m taking a look at some of the latest releases from Dràm Mòr, an independent bottler that’s based in Dumbarton in the West of Scotland. Formed in 2020, this plucky family business survived the trials and tribulations of launching in the midst of a global pandemic and has established itself as a trusted supplier of excellent whiskies and rums.
The drams featured in this piece are all single cask Scotch whiskies from distilleries in the Highlands of Scotland, including the famous Speyside region. By their very nature, single cask expressions are extremely limited in number so if you’re interested in any of the bottlings covered, I’d recommend that you move quickly to track them down.
*Full disclosure: the drams featured in this review were sent to me free of charge. As always, I will strive to give an honest opinion on the quality of the whiskies and the value for money they represent.
Royal Brackla – 11-year-old
The Royal Brackla Distillery stands in the Cawdor Estate, near Nairn in the Scottish Highlands. It’s owned by Bacardi and forms the John Dewar & Sons stable with Aberfeldy, Craigellachie, Macduff and Aultmore. The distillery was established in 1817 and for much of its history, it has been used to produce spirit for blends. It makes for an interesting single malt in its own right, however, and seems to do especially well in ex-sherry casks. High hopes for this expression then.
The single malt was aged for 11 years and finished in an Oloroso sherry cask. It’s bottled at 56.1% ABV.
Smell: Nutty. Autumnal – lots of dry leaves. Prunes and raisins. Spice racks. Golden syrup. Toffee. Baked apples and orange zest. Marmalade. There’s some nice new oak notes in there too, like standing in a woodwork shop. A slight meatiness underneath.
Taste: Sherry-led arrival that’s full of walnuts and dried fruits. It develops a nice spiciness that isn’t too overpowering. Reminded of cayene pepper. Bitter orange. Dry oak and dark chocolate on the finish. Lingering spices.
Thoughts: In my experience, Dràm Mòr do a good job of managing their cask finishes and this is a fine example. The sherry cask is in control but has been prevented from taking over too much. There’s still a bit of spirit character in there. There’s also some dryness on the finish but it isn’t excessive and the spicy heat on the tongue is warming rather than scolding. In other words, it gets the balance right, across the board. I think people enjoy a bit of sherry excess over the winter months but it’s still nice to see some of that Brackla character coming through.
Price: £95. Pricy, but we know sherry casks drive costs up and the quality is there should you fancy treating yourself to an early Christmas present.
Benriach – 10-year-old
Benriach is an interesting distillery with a rocky past. It was founded at the tail end of the 19th century, just before the whisky industry entered a massive downturn. Just two years after opening, the distillery was mothballed and remained closed for decades. The buildings were preserved, however, thanks largely to its malt floor which remained useful to the team at nearby Longmorn. Production eventually resumed and the distillery enjoyed something of a renaissance when it was taken over by the Billy Walker-led Benriach Distilling Co. That success led to its sale to Brown Forman, the US-based owner of Jack Daniel’s.
This Speyside single malt was finished in an ex-Pedro Ximenez sherry cask and bottled at an ABV of 55.5%.
Smell: New leather. Conkers. Figs. Prunes. Walnuts. Raisins. Red berries. Cherries. Caramel. Cinnamon. Black pepper. Liquorice. Aniseed. Oak. Took on an increased nuttiness after water was added.
Taste: Lots of sherry influence. Dried fruits like raisins and sultanas lead the way with dark chocolate and black pepper towards the back. It’s oaky and spicy on the finish with the sherry still hanging around. Was getting serious Terry’s Chocolate Orange vibes at one point. Water loosened the mouthfeel and it seemed to become drier. I think I preferred it neat. Impressive depth in the woody notes.
Thoughts: There was a satisfying weight to this one and the sherry cask’s impact was intense. Similar to the previous dram, there was some nice spice without it feeling too hot. Benriach is such a chameleon of a spirit – it seems to work with different cask finishes and it’s taken to the PX very well. I think this will tick an awful lot of boxes for people looking for a festive, Christmas Day dram. Loads of sherry but some nice citrus and honey under the fortified wine, as well.
Price: £82. A wee bit more accessible than the Brackla and I enjoyed this one a bit more but that’s probably down to my preference for PX over Oloroso.
Ruadh Maor 9-year-old
Ruadh Maor is a trade name given to peated malt produced at Glenturret Distillery in Crieff. This distillery has a serious claim to being the oldest operational plant in Scotland but it would be fair to say that it hasn’t always enjoyed the best of reputations. The recent takeover by a partnership that includes the owner of Lalique crystal, is seeking to change that, with a new range of malts in fancy packaging and an elevated pricing structure. Pricing aside, however, the quality of the spirit has been good, in my experience. Especially, when bottled with minimal interference.
This Dràm Mòr take on peated Glenturret is finished in a PX sherry cask and bottled at 58.5%.
Smell: Raisins, sultanas, ash and charcoal pretty much sums this one up! Some cherry in there. Burnt toffee. Toffee apples. Red liquorice and cherry cola. Struck matches. Charcoal dust. Tobacco ash and chimney coals.
Taste: The sherry and smoke arrive together and compete for your attention straight away. There’s dark chocolate, sultanas and currants mixed with coal fires and chimney smoke. Aniseed balls and even maple syrup.
Thoughts: This is another festive delight and my love for peat would probably have me reaching for it over the other two, though I think you could make a convincing argument for the Benriach being the pick of this bunch. The Glenturret feels like eating dark fruit Christmas Cake and smoking from an old Pipe. It feels like sticking your nose in a Charles Dickens novel. Good mouthfeel and nicely balanced between smoke and sherry. Not for those who prefer a more subtle, nuanced dram. This is big, bold and beautiful.
Price: £99. A bit high again but Glenturret prices are soaring since its big Lalique takeover. Again, the quality is such that it doesn’t feel overpriced.
For more on Dràm Mòr visit HERE
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