WHISKY REVIEWS, NEWS, HISTORY & FOLKLORE
The Bowmore Conundrum or “How the other half live”
I recently took part in a Bowmore tweet tasting led by Steve Rush of The Whisky Wire. I tend not to write up my tasting experiences because the events can be a bit rushed and I find I can’t devote the usual level of concentration to my assessment of the drams but the whiskies in this lineup were rather special and the samples were generous enough, that I was able to revisit them for a second sitting.
Bowmore is Islay’s oldest distillery and probably the one I’ve visited the most. Since I usually stay in Bowmore when on the island, my trips to the distillery are partly out of convenience but that doesn’t tell the whole story. The truth is, I stop by because I love it. The shop is cute and packed with quality merch and the tasting bar is a lovely place to sit and sip on a dram. It’s also a wonderful distillery to photograph, with its location on the banks of Lochindaal offering some dramatic scenes, especially when the sun is setting. I think it would be fair to say, however, that Bowmore’s whisky doesn’t always inspire a lot of praise from the more dedicated of whisky drinkers.
There’s a couple of things to unpack there. Beam Suntory, owners of the distillery and brand, seem to feel that low abv and dollops of caramel colouring are the way to go and that will always be off-putting to the purist element of whisky fandom – of which, I am one, by the way. That said, I think some of the criticism levelled at Bowmore is occasionally unfair. In my opinion, the core range is decent enough and offers an access point to the world of Islay peat, being somewhat less intensely smoked than many of its neighbours. True, they aren’t bottles I purchase for home consumption but I’m always pleased to see a bottle of the 12 on a pub gantry and I enjoy the others well enough when they cross my path. If you listen to some commentary on the subject, however, Bowmore is undrinkable and borderline toxic! People do like to be dramatic at times.
I understand a certain level of frustration because Bowmore can be really, really good. It’s arguably one of the finest malts in Scotland when it gets things right and some of the distillery exclusive handfill bottlings have been excellent and there have been some great Fèis releases over the years. The core releases, whilst drinkable enough, are nowhere near that standard.
Suntory choose to lean heavily on ex-sherry casks for the creation of most bottlings and that’s something else I’d like to see varied from time to time. Sherry-matured bowmore can be good, of course, but so can bourbon or even refill. In fact, one of the best Bowmores I’ve had in recent years was 2022’s 15-year-old Fèis, which showed a lovely, tropical fruit character alongside the typical salt and smoke. I also loved the old Tempest bottles that were discontinued and never replaced. I really wish Suntory would bring that series back – or add something similar in its place. I understand the company’s need to cater to the mass market, but at least offer an alternative to those of us who enjoy a more natural presentation. In other words, give us a higher strength, un-chill-filtered, natural colour Bowmore at a decent price. Give us a new Tempest.
The Tweet Tasting with the Whisky Wire certainly confirmed that there are good Bowmores currently available but sadly, the price point of the drams involved was way beyond the spending of the average whisky drinker. Now, I appreciate that there will always be whisky I can’t afford. I’m not complaining about that, but I do suggest that Suntory are missing a trick by not releasing an affordable, higher strength alternative. Give us a 5-year-old, like Ardbeg did with Wee Beastie, or release a no-age-statement if you must, but give us at least one 46% or above Bowmore that doesn’t cost three figures. Please?
Bowmore 18-year-old
Tasting notes: On the nose: Honey and orange zest. Fudge and butterscotch. Dusty smoke and dunnage warehouses. On the palate there’s a rich oak influence and lots of sherry on the arrival. Dark chocolate with some citrus and pineapple with trademark Islay peat on the finish.
Thoughts: The 18 is an underrated dram for me. It isn’t as sherry-heavy as the rest of the tasting’s lineup and a wee bit of the tropical fruits character I find in bourbon-matured Bowmores was there. That meant there was a little bit of balance, and a lightness that was absent from the other drams. Admittedly, it’s only 40% abv, which makes the hefty price tag of £100 somewhat galling but there’s a decent enough spirit on show.
Bowmore 22-year-old Aston Martin Masters Selection No 3
Tasting notes: Totally dominated by the sherry this time but there’s a slightly sulphuric edge to it. Picking up struck matches and burnt toast on the nose with wintery spices like nutmeg and clove. Not much in the way of smoke though. On the palate there are some typical sherry cask dried fruit notes like raisins and sultanas. There’s also cherries and dark chocolate and some black pepper. Musty oak character towards the back.
Thoughts: More intense and less civilised than the 18. It felt a little bit raw and less polished. Surprisingly little in the way of smoke. I expect peat to diminish over time but in this case it had almost vanished, leaving behind only a charred oak / charcoal vibe in amongst all the sherry. Enjoyable dram though, boosted by the higher bottling strength of 51% but not sure it did enough to justify an asking price of £420. Amazing what the words “Aston Martin” can do for your RRP!
Bowmore 23-year-old Frank Quitely “Lovers Transformed”
Tasting notes: The nose started out with a herbal touch to the sherry. Herbs and spices to go along with the dried fruits. I think I was picking up some rosemary and honey glazed ham. The smoke is back, thankfully, albeit, old smoke. Like a three-day-old fireplace. The palate offered big, oaky sherry with some red fruit top notes. Ginger, cinnamon and pepper. Old balsamic and currants. Stale smoke on the finish – like old, extinguished cigars.
Thoughts: Once again we find a higher strength offering, but once again the asking price is eye-watering. The 23-year-old malt is bottled at 50.9% abv and will cost you around £390 to own. The packaging features illustrations from Frank Quitely, an artist who’s worked on comics for both Marvel and DC. It’s well outside my price range but it’s a fantastic dram, with the addition of some PX casks giving some added depth to the sherry influence.
Bowmore 29-year-old “Timeless”
Tasting notes: Wonderful aromas of festive baking. Gingerbread men. Sultana cake. Madeira cake. Dried fruits and red apple skins. Orange liqueur and grape juice. Highland toffee. The palate brought notes of old, old oak and dry, peppery smoke. Seems to have developed some texture over the years. It’s weighty and feels like it holds some power, despite its old age. Golden syrup and dark honey. The Bowmore smoke is faded though ever-present, like an old smoking jacket in the corner of the room.
Thoughts: What a privilege it was to be able to sample this whisky. At a positively depressing £1,850 per bottle, it won’t be getting added to too many shopping lists – at least not among my readership – but there’s no denying that it’s a fantastic dram. The oak is very, very dominant and comes close to being overdone but for me, it stays just on the right side of that fine line and there’s a wee bit of Bowmore left, still punching its way through all the oak. A drop of history that was three decades in the making. It’s crazy to think of the passing of time and all the things that have happened in the last thirty years and yet through it all, this whisky was lying in a warehouse, just waiting… and then one day, I got to sit down and pour it into my glass. What a peculiar and fascinating thing whisky is. Not something I get the chance to do very often but I’m grateful for the opportunity to take part on this occasion. Now, Suntory, about that Tempest revival…
For more on Bowmore visit here
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