HIP Whisky Bowmore 13-year-old

Fun-size Drams from HIP Whisky

HIP Whisky is a new range of independently bottled spirits that come in convenient (and affordable) 20cl bottles. The first batch features a single grain whisky, two single malts and a rum from Barbados.

Launched through the Kilninian Drinks Co (of Living Souls fame), the new series aims to make premium spirits more accessible in today’s challenging market.

Bowmore Distillery, Islay

Perfect for a struggling market?

On the face of it, this seems like a really smart move. The whisky industry is struggling to get anywhere near the numbers it was shifting a few short years ago, and that’s largely because people have cut back on luxury purchases.

An independently bottled, single-cask single malt might not be too affordable these days, but that doesn’t mean that people don’t want to drink something nice of an evening.

So whilst many people might baulk at spending £70+ on a full bottle, they may well be tempted to spend £20 on a 20cl hip-flask-sized bottle. Essentially, it gives people the opportunity to enjoy some interesting wee drams without having to break the bank.

This concept of smaller bottles also fits in well with the concept of drinking less, but drinking better. In an increasingly health-conscious society, it’s important to shift focus away from quantity and focus instead on quality.

Save the Cabinet?

Personally, I find even more appeal in these bottles, given how often I like to buy new stuff. I’m always chasing the next exciting purchase, but I’m not necessarily great at finishing bottles before buying more.

My cabinet is always full of half-finished bottles. It’s just too tempting to pop the cork on something new. Working through a 20cl bottle is going to be a helluva lot easier.

HIP gets a big thumbs up from me, in theory at least. I wouldn’t like everyone to do this, but it’s great that they now exist. Like all brands, however, HIP will ultimately live or die on the quality of the spirit it bottles.

The range launched with a 28-year-old single grain from Invergordon, a 14-year-old Foursquare Rum, a 12-year-old Tomintoul and a 13-year-old Bowmore. I’m going to be reviewing the latter.

HIP Whisky Bowmore Review

The whisky was distilled at Bowmore Distillery on the Isle of Islay (a personal favourite) and matured in a refill bourbon barrel for 13 years. It’s bottled at 46%.

Tasting notes: On first pour, the peat is very subtle. Almost closed off. There’s a grassiness – dry grass, straw etc. Sort of dusty, too. Like an old malt barn. Beneath that, there’s a promise of some tropical fruits. Pineapple. Lemon, too. Subtle smoke and chimney ashes. 

Pineapple, lemon curd and mango chutney up front. Moving towards toffee. Then some black pepper. Only a sprinkling, though. Sea salt seasoning. Wispy smoke and soft, earthy peat at the back.

After water was added, some of the famous Bowmore Parma Violets emerged. Smoke stirs up a little, but still a light touch compared to the Islay stereotype. Salted caramel on the palate now, more pepper and more peat. 

Thoughts: A dram of subtlety and balance. This is the refined, classy side of Islay. Mature, subtle, complex.

When the spirit is kept away from overly active casks, you see a whole new side to Bowmore. The quality of the raw spirit shines, and that’s what it feels like here. Don’t go in expecting a big, bolshy bomb of a dram. This is an altogether more sophisticated affair: spirit-led, well-crafted, and delicious.

Price: £20. You simply can’t go wrong. 20cl, or 200ml, is basically 8 drams (at pub measures). That’s £2.50 a dram for a fantastic 13-year-old Bowmore.

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