This review features the Lum Reek 12-year-old blended malt Scotch whisky from Glenallachie’s MacNair’s offshoot.
The Bothy and the Reeking Lum
There is a touch of folklore about the origins of this whisky. According to legend, Victorian entrepreneur Harvey MacNair once sought refuge in an old bothy after a particularly wet day of fishing the rivers and lochs of the Scottish Highlands. Lighting a fire to keep warm, he found the chimney blocked and the room soon filled with smoke. Not one to give up easily, Harvey made the best of the situation and poured himself a dram. Apparently, he became so enamoured with the combination of flavours in his glass as they mingled with the smoke in the room that he became determined to recapture the sensation in a new whisky.
In 1857, he founded Harvey MacNair & Company, blenders and bottlers of fine Scotch whisky. He acquired Benromach Distillery in 1911, though his stewardship of the premises lasted less than a decade. The company was later taken over by Hiram Walker of Canada, and by 1987, the MacNair name was all but forgotten. Later, ownership passed on again, this time to Pernod Ricard.
Glenallachie and MacNair
In July 2017, a team led by Billy Walker purchased Glenallachie from Pernod Ricard. As part of the package, they also received the MacNair’s brand name, which they would soon put to good use, with the launch of Lum Reek. The new whisky was inspired by MacNair’s legendary night in the bothy all those years ago. Lang may yer lum reek is a Scottish term that wishes health and prosperity, literally meaning long may your chimney smoke.
Lum Reek 12 Year Old Review
Combining the whiskies of Speyside and Islay with the malt of Glenallachie, Billy Walker created a range of bottlings, starting with an entry-level NAS version and progressing to 12 and 21 year olds. Each expression is bottled at 46%, unchill-filtered and natural colour.
Tasting notes: The nose is rich and complex. There’s smoke, but it drifts around in the background. Jammy fruits. Figs and raisins, plums and raspberries. Dark chocolate. Currants. On the palate, the red wine comes to the fore with some oaky tannins, more jammy fruits, and, towards the back, a subtle cloud of smoke. Wine, sherry, oak, smoke – in that order.
Thoughts: Well put together. There’s a lot going on, but the various elements work in harmony. A dram of bold flavour, satisfying mouthfeel, and, ultimately, balance. No mean feat when there’s sherry, red wine, and peat smoke involved. This is actually a re-review of this whisky, as I also sampled it back in 2020, and it’s every bit as enjoyable as I remember. Still, I can’t help but wonder if there’s a long-term future for the Lum Reek brand, now that Glenallachie have launched peated version, Meikle Toir. For now at least, Lum Reek still seems to be around, and it’s certainly enjoyable enough to warrant a purchase.
Price: Around £50. Reasonable price for a dram of this quality – and it seems to be regularly discounted on various sites online.
Leave a Reply