WHISKY REVIEWS, NEWS, HISTORY & FOLKLORE
The Dailuaine Dram
This is the third article in a series of reviews featuring single cask whiskies from independent bottler, Watt Whisky. In this latest instalment, I’m looking towards Speyside and the Diageo-owned Dailuaine Distillery.
Dailuaine Distillery was built in 1851 by William MacKenzie. In those days, the Speyside region was remote and cut off from the bustling central belt, where Scotland’s emerging Blended Scotch market was largely situated. In 1963, however, the arrival of the Strathspey Railway connected the region’s distilleries with the south and soon, Speyside was booming.
A branch line, 1.25 miles long was run from the Carron Station to Dailuaine, meaning fuel and raw ingredients could be delivered direct to the distillery and mature spirit easily sent to the blenders of Edinburgh, Glasgow and everywhere in between. Dailuaine thrived and soon an expansion was required, just to keep up with demand.
In 1899, an architect by the name of Charles Doig was hired to aid in the distillery’s redesign. Doig came up with a pagoda-like ventilator system for the kiln that was so successful it became synonymous with Scottish distilleries for generations to come. Even today, the look of a distillery is, for many, defined by the pagoda that crowns the building. Sadly, however, Dailuaine’s pagoda, which would hold huge significance as the earliest example of Doig’s work, was destroyed in a fire in 1917.
The distillery was later sold to John Dewar & Sons and from there, it became part of the Distillers Company Ltd (DCL). Today, it remains in the stewardship of Diageo, with the vast majority of its whisky still ringfenced for the blended Scotch industry.
It seems a shame that so much of Dailuaine’s spirit is used in blends as the whisky often has a character worthy of more. A speedy distillation and the use of steel in the condensers to cut down on copper contact produces a meaty and distinctive malt that often pairs well with sherry casks.
*Full disclosure: the whisky featured in this review was sent to me free of charge. As always, I will strive to give an honest opinion on the quality of the dram and the value for money it represents.
The Whisky
The whisky was distilled in 2012 and bottled in 2023 at 58.8% ABV. It was matured in a single refill sherry butt.
Smell: It’s not an obvious sherry cask profile. At first, I got orchard fruits with some malt and oak. There was even a wee bit of pineapple and lemon. Then came the light touch of sherry with walnuts and almonds, cinnamon and ginger.
Taste: There’s a nice weight to the dram. It’s almost chewy. There’s black pepper, buttery vanilla, new oak, and more fresh fruits along with pineapple and tinned melon. Pears. Apple pie. Some light citrus.
Thoughts: Dailuaine can be a complex spirit at times and this one does quite a good job of showcasing its natural profile. The refill sherry butt adds only the subtlest hints of nuttiness, dried fruits and warm spice. Otherwise, you find an interesting display of light, fresh fruits and malt with unexpected body and weight. Nicely balanced with nuances that warrant further investigation.
Price: £68. A sensible price in today’s market and a nice natural presentation for a character malt.
For more about Watt Whisky visit here
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