WHISKY REVIEWS, NEWS, HISTORY & FOLKLORE
100% French Single Malt
The main focus of this blog will always be Scotch whisky but every now and again, I like to cast my net a bit further. It can be both entertaining and educational to check out the plethora of whiskies being produced in other countries and Brenne is a brand I’ve been aware of for quite a long time without ever actually trying – until now.
This sample has been sitting in my cupboard for at least a year. In fact, it’s been there so long, I can’t actually remember where I got it from. The most likely explanation is that it was inside one of the Master of Malt Advent Calendars that were sent to me over the last couple of years. Or it’s possible it was in a Drinks by the Dram sample pack that I bought myself. Anyway, I spent January working my way through a large sample backlog and the Brenne finally had its moment. Thing is, the more I read about this brand, the more intrigued I became.
Brenne is a French single malt whisky that was founded (and funded) by Allison Parc, a former ballerina turned whisky entrepreneur. Allison retired from dancing at the age of 23 and took great enjoyment in the wee luxuries that had, until then, been denied her by her career choice. Developing a great passion for food and drink, Allison became fascinated by the concept of Terroir – so often described in relation to wine – and its application in the world of whisky. Soon she was dreaming of producing her own whisky in such a way. Then, during a trip to France, Allison was introduced to a third-generation Cognac distiller who had been experimenting with whisky on his family farm. The quality of the spirit captured the imagination and the former Ballerina was soon investing her life savings in a partnership.
The whisky begins in the fields of Cognac with its mineral rich soils and mild microclimate. Two types of heirloom barley are grown on the estate and then combined with a proprietary yeast strain that’s been in the distiller’s family for years. The spirit is produced in an Alembic, giving it a fruit-forward new make, different from that produced in Scotland’s famous pots. It’s then rested in French Limousin oak and Cognac casks to create a complete seed-to-spirit product.
Brenne launched in New York City in 2012, with Allison self-distributing bottles around Manhattan on a Citi Bike. From those humble beginnings, the whisky has grown in stature and claimed various awards in recent years – Allison herself is a three-time winner of the Icons of Whisky World Whisky Brand Ambassador of the Year.
It’s quite a story – the Ballerina, the Distiller and the terroir-driven malt – but is the whisky actually any good? There’s only one way to find out!
*Full disclosure: The sample featured in this review might (I don’t remember!) have been sent to me free of charge. As always, I will strive to give an honest opinion on the quality of the dram and the value for money it represents.
The Whisky
Made with malted barley grown in Cognac – double distilled – then initially matured in Limousin oak before a finishing period in cognac casks. Each bottle drawn from a single cask and bottled at 40%
Smell: It’s an interesting nose – floral and creamy. Some nuttiness too. Almonds. Coconut. A wee bit of citrus – orange and lemon. Some cereal notes. Malty. Grassy. Lemon mousse. Green apples and white grapes.
Taste: Quite a lively arrival. Fruity. Apples. Lemons. Limes. Agave syrup. Green olives. Bit of toffee. Some gingery spice. Wee touch of new oak. That grassiness again. Wine gums. Carte d’or vanilla ice cream. Tinned fruits. Pear drops.
Thoughts: Interesting. On first impression it doesn’t feel too weak at its low strength but it shows quite an unusual flavour profile for a malt whisky. Different is good, but can you be too different? My experience with cognac is fairly limited but it seems particularly dominant on the finish. That said, it’s a pleasant drink with plenty of flavour and does feel, sort of, authentically French. That’s a good thing, because there’s no point simply attempting to recreate Scotch whisky in another country (which some seem to try) – and this certainly doesn’t taste like Scotch. I also like that they’re exploring creativity at every stage. A lot of European (and world) whiskies seem to think a cask that was once filled with some local wine will be enough to differentiate their spirit from all the other Scotch clones but Brenne is fully utilising its natural surroundings to produce something legitimately of the place. I appreciate that, even if it does feel like it strays quite far from a traditional whisky profile at times.
Price – £61. This could be a bit of a sticking point. I enjoyed the dram but I don’t know that I’d be happy paying £60 for a no age statement malt at 40% so it’s interesting and unusual but also rather expensive. Maybe it would be worth seeking out if you enjoy exploring new flavours but the price could prohibit it from becoming a regular purchase.
For more about Brenne visit here
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