A Scot on Scotch reviews a 9 year old Benrinnes single malt, bottled by Càrn Mòr, and tells the tale of The Great Moray Flood…
The Great Moray Flood
Benrinnes distillery, as we know it today, was founded in 1835, but an earlier plant operated under the same name in a slightly different location. Founded by Peter McKenzie in 1826, the original Benrinnes had barely got started when it became a victim of the Muckle Spate, a nightmarish flood that happened in 1829.
That year’s early summer had brought unusually warm weather and even drought but conditions soon changed, with strong winds and torrential rain becoming common. For many nights, the Aurora Borealis illuminated the skies, the lights dancing more vividly than anyone could remember. Some suggested that this might be a warning. An omen of trouble, yet to come… They were right.
Speyside’s Natural Disaster
July brought a deluge. Rivers and streams swelled to dangerous levels, and seemed to worsen by the day, and the arrival of August brought great, dark clouds over the horizon. When the storm clouds broke, it was like all hell had let loose. On the 3rd of August, 5 inches of rain fell on Morayshire. In his book, The Great Moray Floods of 1829, Sir Thomas Dick Lauder, writes “it came down so thick, that the very air itself seemed to be descending in one mass of water upon the earth. Nothing could withstand it.”
Across the region, rivers broke their banks. The mighty Spey, fastest-flowing river in Scotland, rose ten feet in three hours. A torrent of water was released upon the landscape, sweeping away anything that stood in its way. Homes and businesses alike, were destroyed forever. Crops that had awaited harvest were ruined as the very land was torn asunder. When the water finally subsided, it left a scene of devastation, from Inverness in the north to Abernethy in the south.
22 bridges were destroyed, along with dozens of homes. It was estimated that 600 families had been made homeless by the flood. Eight poor souls lost their lives.
Peter McKenzie’s Benrinnes distillery was virtually flattened. It lay on the ground as little more than a pile of stones, until a man named John Innes, tasked himself with its reconstruction, in 1835.
Today, Benrinnes is owned by distilling and drinks giant, Diageo. Sadly, official bottlings of the distillery’s single malt are limited to a solitary 15 year old in the Flora & Fauna series. Fortunately however, this characterful dram can often be found amongst the output of independent bottlers like Morrison & MacKay, owners of the Càrn Mòr range.
Càrn Mòr Strictly Limited Benrinnes Aged 9 Years
This Càrn Mòr ‘Strictly Limited’ expression is made from the vatting of two Hogsheads, aged for 9 years, and bottled at 46% alcohol by volume.
Tasting notes: Wonderfully meaty nose, like chargrilled meats, and burnt toast meets baked apples and vanilla cream with a touch of pepper. On the palate there are zesty fruits – oranges, lemons and limes. There’s toffee, vanilla and caramel with a light touch of oak spice. Good weight on the palate.
Thoughts: A dram of decent age with an unusual character for a reasonable price. Benrinnes is fast becoming something of a favourite distillery, for me. Similar to Mortlach, it seems to offer a weightier, beefier take on the light, fruity character of a traditional Speyside dram. It’s a big, chewy belter that’s frighteningly drinkable and it won’t break the bank. Ideal.
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